Alpine Summer in Chamonix, France
Chamonix is said to be the “birthplace” of alpinism (alpinism is defined as mountain climbing in the Alps or other high mountains… So I use quotes around birthplace, knowing that there were people outside of Europe who climbed high mountains prior to 1760). So anyhow… I of course went to Chamonix with high hiking hopes. But things often don’t go to plan, and earlier in my trip I tested positive for covid. My covid symptoms were incredibly mild, and by the time I tested positive, I was already feeling on the up and up. Still, I knew I had to take it easy and protect those around me, so I kept to myself (I bought food and groceries while wearing a heavy duty N95 mask, and sanitized my hands and everything I came in contact with obsessively). I did my best to keep my distance from others— while still getting out to experience one of the most beautiful regions on earth; by taking scenic drives around in my rental car, and solo walks/hikes on uncrowded trails. By the time I got to Chamonix, I was past the “contagious window”, so I ventured out, while still keeping distance from others, and masking up.
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These photos were shot on film & iphone. Film is Kodak Portra 400 film
HIKE TO LAC BLANC
Since I was recovering from covid, I had to scale back my hiking goals. Fortunately, Chamonix has trails of every level to choose from, and a very convenient system of gondolas and skis lifts that operate in the summer— allowing you to cheat your way up and start your hike at higher altitude (the ride up is also awesome and scenic). Europe was experiencing a nasty heat wave while I was there, and the Chamonix valley was quite hot— so taking the lift up 3000+ feet meant 20 degree cooler temperatures, and some pleasant cloud cover to hike under. As far as distancing, the lift chairs mostly go up empty, so I didn’t have to ride near anybody.
I chose to hike to Lac Blanc, which is a fairly popular trail, but less traveled when starting from higher up at the Index ski lift at 8515’ (2,595m). By taking the chair this high up, the majority of the hike would be downhill (and I was taking full advantage of my covid recovery as an excuse to be a little lazy). The changing view on the ride up was amazing, and only got better as I got higher. Chamonix is a narrow green valley with crazy steep mountains on either side. Lac Blanc is nestled in the mountains on the opposite side of the valley from Mont Blanc peak, and a panorama of snowy mountain peaks and cascading glaciers. Words really can’t describe how stunning the view is.
I had misjudged how easy I thought the trail would be. Up at this altitude and above the tree line, the trail was all sharp, uneven rocks and big steps up and down. Thankfully I came prepared with my burly Arcteryx hiking boots (the same ones that got me up the very rocky 14,505’ summit of Mt. Whitney last year), and strong knees from all the squats I’ve been doing (I’ve switched up my fitness routine to doing a lot more strength training at home since last fall, and I definitely have never felt stronger). The trail wasn’t all downhill either, there was a pretty steep elevation gain for the last bit leading up to the lake.
Once at Lac Blanc, there were a lot of people coming and going from the lake and refuge (in the Alps there are mountain huts called refuges; where you can eat lunch, drink a beer, and even stay overnight). Keeping my distance, I sadly had to skip visiting the refuge, so I instead found solitude (and the best view) just above the lake. It’s funny how out of hundreds of people who will hike to a destination like Lac Blanc, only one (me) will hike 100 meters past it. Hot tip: that’s usually where the best views are!
I was checking out my location on a map on my phone, and I noticed that there were more lakes beyond Lac Blanc. It looked like less than a mile away was another lake called Lac du Perseverance (what an appropriate name— PERSEVERANCE– for a lake that requires you to keep going above and beyond). The weather was turning a bit gray with a chance of rain, and the lake was kind of lackluster… so after all my perseverance, I didn’t spend any time up at the lake. But it’s not the destination… it’s how many miles you can log on your Strava, right!? JK.
Aiguille du Midi
The Aiguille du Midi cable car brings you from 3396’ in the town of Chamonix, on a very quick and vertical ride up to 12,605ft in the mountains. It’s completely bonkers. Up at the top there’s a cable car station with a bunch of viewing platforms, a restaurant, and access to another cable car that connects across the Vallée Blanche glacier valley to yet another cable car station, Punta Herbronner on the Italian side of the mountain range. It’s a true engineering marvel that allows you to sit back and gaze at the most incredible mountain scenery pass all around you.
Aiguille du Midi provides access for mountaineering, ice climbing, skiing, and all sorts of epic year-round winter sports activities… but since I was “taking it easy”… this visit I was just sightseeing and taking photos. One day I will go back and get out on that glacier!
VALLEE BLANCHE & Punta Herbronner
ICE CLIMBING MER DE GLACE
I just so happened to be visiting Chamonix at the same time an Arcteryx event was happening— the Arcteryx Alpine Academy. As a big fan of Arcteryx gear, and actually a Los Angeles store ambassador, it was a pretty crazy coincidence that I chose to visit Chamonix after my Cannes work trip, and the dates just so happened to line up with this event. The Arcteryx Academy is a multi-day event with daily clinics teaching various skills and techniques for climbing, mountaineering, and other rad alpine activities. By the time I learned about the event, many of the clinics were already sold out, but I managed to grab a spot in an introductory ice climbing activity with C.A.M.P. (Camp.it, an Italian-based Alpine gear company). I enjoy rock climbing, and have always been interested in (but a little nervous to) try ice climbing.
The timing worked out, and thank goodness I was in the clear as far as covid, so I could attend the ice climbing clinic on my last day in Chamonix.
There may not be another place in the world where you can so easily ice climb during a heat wave in summer. Chamonix is a popular destination for alpine adventure enthusiasts, because the mountains are very accessible by way of the Aiguille du Midi, and the extensive network of other trains and lifts. Accessible as the mountains (and glaciers) may be, you still have to put in some sweat to get to them. Our Arcteryx group took the Mer de Glace train up from Chamonix, and from the station we hiked down a very steep hill to the tongue of the glacier, from where we strapped on our crampons, and hiked for over an hour on the glacier to a suitable place with ice that could be climbed. The approach to/from where we climbed was quite a workout in of itself (not complaining, but damn do Europeans hike fast).
Once at our base for the day, we learned how to set up rope climbing anchor systems using ice screws, and we were showed how to belay climbers from above (belaying means basically holding up your partner with a rope so that when they fall you’ve got them held with the rope and harness). The system was slightly different from the regular rock climbing techniques that I was familiar with. Learning to climb using ice axes (and crampons) was the best part of the experience, and I really enjoyed it. You forcefully swing each axe, and then the tiny axe tips dig deep into the ice, and miraculously are able to support your weight… it’s a very cool and satisfying feeling when you get it right. We only got to climb up the glacier a couple of times before it was time to pack up and hike back out. After just those short, introductory climbs I feel like I’m hooked… and I’ll be seeking out frozen waterfalls to climb this winter! Thank you Arcteryx Academy and C.A.M.P. for the intro!
Packing essentials for my Chamonix trip:
Drone: DJI Mavic Air 2 Fly More combo. There’s a lot of no fly zones in Chamonix, but it’s worth bring your drone and finding the places you can fly (including in Italy on just the other side of the Mont Blanc tunnel).
Water filter bottle: Katadyn BeFree 1L. For filtering stream and lake water for drinking.
And my favorite gear by Arcteryx: Aerios 15 daypack, Acrux GTX boots, Atom hoody, Oriel leggings, Gore-tex Venda anorak, Beta Gore-tex pants, Rho thermals, Grotto toque beanie, gloves, etc.